Why go
Lahaul and Spiti are two neighbouring valleys in Himachal Pradesh where the green of Manali gives way to a cold, high-altitude desert. Think whitewashed monasteries on cliffs, villages above 4,000 m, blue-green lakes, fossil-rich hills and some of the clearest night skies in India. Spiti means "the middle land" between India and Tibet, and it feels like it. It suits road-trippers, photographers, couples and anyone who wants quiet, though it is not an easy trip and needs time to adjust to the altitude.
When to go
June to September is the easiest window, because the Manali to Kaza road via Kunzum Pass is open, the weather is mild and Chandratal is accessible. July and August bring monsoon landslides on parts of the route, so keep spare days. October is colder but beautiful, and the Kunzum side can close early with snow. In winter, Kaza is reached only from the Shimla side and the valley is freezing and quiet, which suits experienced travellers who want snow and a chance of seeing snow leopards. Check road status before you leave, because closures change quickly.
Getting there
The usual base is Manali, about 12 to 14 hours by road or overnight bus from Delhi. The nearest airport is Bhuntar (Kullu), and the nearest big railway stations are Chandigarh and Joginder Nagar, though most people reach Manali by road. Since the 9 km Atal Tunnel opened, the drive from Manali to Lahaul no longer needs the Rohtang Pass, which saves hours. From Manali to Kaza is roughly 200 km but takes 9 to 11 hours with stops. The alternative route is from Shimla through Kinnaur, which is longer but open for more of the year.
Permits and practicalities
Indian citizens generally do not need a special permit for Spiti, but carry a government photo ID. Foreign visitors need a permit for some restricted sections. Fuel up in Keylong or Kaza because pumps are scarce, and carry cash because ATMs in Kaza can be out of order. Mobile networks are patchy, and many homestays have only basic Wi-Fi. Download offline maps before you leave Manali.
Getting around
A hired taxi or Tempo Traveller from Manali is the easiest way to see the circuit, and local drivers know the road better than a map does. Self-drive is possible for experienced drivers in a high-clearance car or on a bike, but the roads have water crossings, loose gravel and sudden weather changes. Public buses run between Manali and Kaza, but they are slow and infrequent.
Altitude and health
Kaza is around 3,800 m, and villages such as Langza and Kibber sit above 4,000 m. Kunzum Pass and Chandratal are higher still. Plan a slow climb, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and do not push on if you feel unwell. A mild headache is common, but vomiting, confusion or breathlessness at rest means you should descend and get help. Spend a night in Keylong or Jispa on the way up to adjust.
6-day plan
- Day 1: Manali to Keylong or Jispa. Drive through the Atal Tunnel into Lahaul. Stop at Sissu for waterfalls and a view of the valley, then stay the night in Keylong or Jispa to start adjusting to the altitude.
- Day 2: Kunzum Pass and Chandratal. Cross Kunzum Pass, visit its small temple and continue to the Chandratal trailhead. Walk to the lake in the late afternoon and stay in a camp if the weather allows, as the lake is seasonal and conditions change.
- Day 3: Chandratal to Kaza. Drive down to Kaza, stopping at Losar, the first village of Spiti. Rest in the afternoon and walk around Kaza town and its market.
- Day 4: Key Monastery and the high villages. Visit Key Monastery, then Kibber, Chicham bridge, Langza (famous for its fossils and a Buddha statue), Hikkim (one of the highest post offices in the world) and Komic. Start early because this is a long day of short drives.
- Day 5: Dhankar and Pin Valley. Drive to Dhankar to see the monastery and the lake above it. Continue to Pin Valley for green meadows and a quieter landscape, or to Tabo for its ancient monastery. Return to Kaza or stay in a homestay.
- Day 6: Back to Manali. Leave early for the long drive back over Kunzum and through the Atal Tunnel. If you want a slower trip, add a day and break the return in Keylong.
Where to stay
Kaza has the widest choice, from budget guesthouses to comfortable hotels. Villages such as Langza, Komic and Kibber have homestays that feel warm and personal, and are the best way to get a sense of local life. Chandratal has seasonal camps. Book ahead from June to August, and carry warm clothes because rooms can be basic and cold at night.
Food
Expect simple vegetarian meals in most places: dal, rice, rajma, parathas, momos and thukpa. Many homestays serve home-cooked Spitian food, which is worth trying. Carry snacks, water and electrolytes, because restaurants can be far apart and close early.
With parents
Spiti is a demanding destination for older travellers, so check with a doctor first and plan for slower days with early nights. Go in July to September when the days are warmest, hire a reliable driver, and keep the Chandratal walk optional. Skip the high villages if anyone struggles with altitude. Carry regular medicines because pharmacies are limited.
More trips like this
If Spiti appeals to you, read our Nubra Valley guide for another high-altitude desert valley in Ladakh, or the Tungnath trek guide for a shorter Himalayan trip from Delhi.
Good to know
Pack warm layers, a windcheater, sunscreen, sunglasses and a power bank. Respect monasteries and local customs, and avoid littering because waste is hard to manage up here. Always keep a spare day in your plan for weather or road closures.
Questions people ask
How many days do you need for Lahaul and Spiti?
Six to seven days from Manali is a good plan, with an overnight in Keylong or Jispa for acclimatisation. A shorter trip is possible but leaves little time for the high villages.
When is the best time to visit Spiti?
June to September, when the Manali to Kaza road is open. October is beautiful but cold, and winter access is only from the Shimla side.
Do Indians need a permit for Spiti?
Generally no, but carry a government photo ID. Foreign visitors need a permit for some restricted stretches.
How far is Kaza from Manali?
Roughly 200 km, but it takes 9 to 11 hours with stops because of the high passes and rough road sections. Plan an early start.
Is altitude sickness a problem in Spiti?
It can be. Kaza is around 3,800 m and several villages are higher. Go up slowly, drink water, avoid alcohol and descend if symptoms get worse.
Can I visit Chandratal Lake?
Yes, usually from June to September or early October. The lake is reached by a short walk from the road end, and conditions can change, so check locally before you go.
Is Spiti suitable for senior citizens?
Only with a doctor's approval and plenty of time. Choose the warmer months, a reliable driver and slow days, and skip the highest villages if needed.
