Why go
Varanasi, also called Kashi and Banaras, sits on the western bank of the Ganga and is one of the oldest living cities in the world. Most people come for three things: the ghats at sunrise, darshan at Kashi Vishwanath, and the evening Ganga Aarti. Give it three unhurried days and add a quiet morning at Sarnath.
When to go
October to March is the most comfortable time. Summer afternoons are very hot, and in the monsoon the river can rise over the lower ghats and stop boat rides. Mahashivratri, Dev Deepawali and Shravan bring very large crowds, so book stays early and expect long queues at the temple.
Getting there
Varanasi airport is roughly an hour by car from the ghats. Trains from most big cities arrive at Varanasi Junction or Banaras station. Cars cannot enter the old lanes, so you usually get out near Godowlia and walk the last few minutes to the temple or the river.
Getting around
Walk the old city and the ghats; hire an auto or e-rickshaw for longer hops, and book a boat at the ghat for sunrise and the aarti. Agree on the price and the length of the ride before you step in.
Kashi Vishwanath darshan
The temple opens very early, with the first aarti before dawn, and timings change through the year and on festivals, so check the temple's official site before you go. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor connects the temple to the river, which makes the walk from the ghat easy. Mobile phones and electronic items are restricted inside, so leave them at your stay or in the lockers provided. Early morning is the calmest time. The Annapurna temple is right next to it.
3-day plan
- Day 1: Arrive and the evening aarti. Check in near the ghats and rest. In the evening, watch the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, which runs for about 45 to 60 minutes. The steps fill well before it starts, so arrive early, or watch from a boat if standing in the crowd is hard.
- Day 2: Ghats at dawn and Kashi Vishwanath. Take a sunrise boat past the ghats, have a slow breakfast, then go for darshan before the crowds build. Visit Annapurna, then Kal Bhairav in the afternoon, and rest through the heat.
- Day 3: Sarnath and the river. Sarnath is about 10 km away. See the Dhamek Stupa, the museum and the ruins in the morning. Return for an easy afternoon walk along the ghats, and Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple if you have energy left.
Where to stay
Stay near Dashashwamedh or Assi Ghat to keep the walks short, or choose a quieter hotel away from the lanes if you are travelling with elders. Lanes are narrow and stepped, so ask how far the car can reach.
Food
Try kachori and sabzi for breakfast, chaat and lassi at Godowlia, a simple thali for lunch, and Banarasi sweets and paan after dinner. In winter look for malaiyo, the foamy milk sweet sold on the streets. Eat where the food is cooked fresh and the stall is busy.
With parents
The ghats and lanes mean many steps. A boat is the easiest way to see the aarti and the ghats without standing in the crowd. Keep darshan to early morning, leave the afternoon free to rest, and carry water. Ask your stay to arrange a rickshaw or car as close to the temple as possible.
Good to know
Dress modestly and be ready to remove shoes. Keep small cash for boats, flowers and prasad. Ignore touts who offer paid shortcuts to darshan, and agree on boat prices before boarding.
Questions people ask
How many days do I need in Varanasi?
Three days is comfortable: one for the evening aarti, one for the ghats and Kashi Vishwanath, and one for Sarnath. Two days works if you skip Sarnath.
When is the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat?
It is held in the evening and lasts about 45 to 60 minutes. The start time shifts with the season, so confirm locally, and arrive early to get a place.
Can I carry my phone into Kashi Vishwanath?
Mobile phones and electronic items are restricted inside the temple. Leave them at your stay or in the lockers provided.
Is Varanasi suitable for elderly parents?
Yes, with planning. Use a boat for the aarti, keep darshan to early morning, rest in the afternoon and expect plenty of steps.
